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First, please understand, I'm NOT selling targets. I have to make a bunch of them for Standing Stone 4. I've designed a few mechanisms. This one is simple, resists alot of energy, and can be made from readily available parts. I cut mine from sheet steel with a small plasma cutter. You can jig or band saw them, torch them, or make them from plywood, and armor around the kill zone.

Clearly, you have to have some tools and some ability to think thru stuff like this, however; you should not have too much trouble converting this idea to a wooden base and face (if you need to) or making small alterations for your needs.

The key things to buy are 8" Tee hinges. I got mine at Lowes - huge home centers in this region. Also just picked up the light extension spring there. Makes a self base and the strong double joints you need.

I post this in the hope it may help individuals or clubs come up with the targets needed to enjoy their sport / hobby. The weight of the Tee hinges will determine how much energy the things will take without bending up. This paddle will show slight bending at the kill zone area at about 40 fpe from 25 caliber buckshot. (Easily straightened by hammering after a long session - or just use heavier stuff in the first place). I don't think the normal 20 fpe FT guns would phase it.

Enjoy. ;?)

You see how the hinge arm is shaped to be the lock bar for this "sear" design and also the kill paddle behind the kill zone hole. You can figure where the hole is there behind the section that's laying flat against the back of the target face.


Note that the one Tee hinge leg was sawed off and welded to the target face. If you made yours from wood, you could leave more of that leg and screw it onto the back of the face.


You see how the two hinges were welded together here to make the integral base. OR, you could screw both hinges (in this orientation) to a heavy 2 by 10 wooden base and not even weld them.


The "Sear Shelf" is welded to the back of the face. The top of the sear lever locks under here to hold it upright against the slight spring tension. Just make sure your shelf is NOT angled so it jams tighter by capturing the paddle as it tries to back out from under the shelf. For a wooden version, consider a section of small angle iron (1/2" by 1/2" about 5" long) and screw (or stove bolt) about two on each side of the paddle section.

I put the red dot on there to show you where I'd put an adjustment screw and lock nut thru the face. The screw could be adjusted so as to limit the depth engagement of the sear bar under the shelf - making it easier to disengage when hit thru the kill zone hole.

This target falls completely flat - like it was hit by a train! A string thru an oversized smooth edged hole in the face, and then going to the locking bar (about half way up) would allow you to reset it from the shooting line. I use the nylon Mason's strings on rewind spools - Lowes again.

For my targets at Standing Stone, I refresh the kill zones with paint in order to have a "jury" regarding the individual's hits. Thus - I just reset the field manually as I score and paint them. Saves having a tangle of 30 strings ... ;?)

Good Luck! Have fun ...